Seasonal Hair Transition Series: How to Protect Your Hair in Winter – Heat Styling vs. Air Drying

Hey, it's Meg Ann Lee! This is the final post in my Seasonal Hair Transition Series - and we're ending with one of the most asked questions in the salon chair: When it's freezing outside, should you be heat styling more, or is air drying better for your hair? And what about if you wear extensions? Let's get into it!

1

The Truth About Air Drying in Winter

Air drying sounds like the "healthy" choice, right? But, here's the catch: when your hair stays damp for long periods, the cuticle stays slightly expanded, making strands weaker and more prone to breakage. Combine that with stepping outside into cold temps, and you're basically flash-freezing your ends. Not ideal.

So while air drying can work in summer, in winter it's actually safer to partially dry your hair with low heat, then finish with air drying indoors. Think of it as the compromise: less heat exposure without leaving your hair vulnerable.

The Truth About Heat Styling in Winter

Blow dryers, curling irons, and flat irons aren't the enemy-it's how OFTEN and how HOT you go. In winter, the air is already dry, so cranking heat tools on the daily pulls even more moisture from your strands. This leads to:

  • Split ends
  • Breakage mid-shaft
  • Dullness (aka lifeless winter hair)

Pro tip: If you're using heat tools more often in winter, lower the temp and ALWAYS use a heat protectant.

What About Extensions?

Extensions need even more love in cold weather. Here's why:

  • Air drying with extensions can leave the weft, bonds or beads damp for too long, which weakens them.
  • Over-styling with heat can dry out the extensions faster since they don't receive natural scalp oils.

Best bet? Blow dry the root area at low heat (especially where your extensions are attached) to keep bonds strong, then style the mids and ends on low heat or let them air dry. Bonus: keep a lightweight oil or leave-in handy to maintain softness without weighing extensions down. OIL IS NOT A NEGOTIABLE for extensions.

My Pro Routine for Winter Styling

Here's how I recommend balancing the two methods for healthy hair all season:

  1. Towel dry gently - microfiber towels or cotton T-shirts reduce frizz.
  2. Partial blow dry - dry roots and scalp area to prevent chills and swelling cuticles.
  3. Air dry the rest - indoors, away from harsh cold temps.
  4. Style smarter - when curling or straightening, lower your temp to 300-325°F max.

Meg's Must-Have Styling Products

Here are a few pro-approved products that keep your hair safe while you switch between heat and air drying:

At the end of the day, there's no one-size-fits-all answer. Air drying and heat styling both have pros and cons in winter-it's about balance. Protect your scalp and roots, keep your lengths hydrated, and never skip your heat protectant. And remember: hair is meant to be styled and ENJOYED. Don't stress the routine, just keep it healthy. Thanks for following along with my Seasonal Hair Transition Series! I hope it's helped you feel more confident about your hair through this seasonal switch. Stay tuned-I've got fresh beauty and hair content dropping every Sunday <3 -Meg Ann Lee